I like Madurai

Despite the touts, the people seem genuinely friendly. I don't know if it helps that I dress the part - bindi, Indian-style jewellery, jasmine-garlanded hair, salwar-kamiz, or ankle-length sari wrap skirt - but I feel like I've had more hellos from adults than normal, even a "welcome to Madurai", a handful of sweet vegetable mix (chopped carrots, red onion and unripe mango) and a flower garland (normally I'm wary of photographing salespeople because I might be compelled to buy something from them, but this man let me photograph him, handed me a garland saying "free", and waved me on my way).