Ganga Lodge

That's as in the river Ganges, not as in the weed, before you say anything, Mr. Chapatti!

It's about all you could hope for 200 rupees a night - the room's spacious, the sheets almost clean, and there's a small balcony over the street. The bathroom is coated with several mm of limescale, but the water is sun-warmed.

There's a pleasant aroma in the afternoons of biscuits baking in the nearby British Bakery. I've seen Italian Bakeries, French Bakeries, and several German Bakeries in India - they pretty much all have the same selection of Asian versions of European breads and pastries, plus melt-in-the-mouth fluffy biscuits and sliced tray cakes (unlike Thai cakes with their unbearably-sickly frosting these are surprisingly nice, as I discovered when I decided, in culinary-adventurer mode, to test one).